A few that made the opening cut? Crispy bean curd dumplings stir-fried noodles with pork gravy and Chinese broccoli over crispy chow mein and the famed hoi tod seafood omelets with Thai sriracha. “We wrote ‘we have to have this' on at least 50 things,” laughs Nelson. Their biggest challenge: scaling the menu. “I feel lucky to be part of this, to be brought into someone else’s culture,” says Sam Smith “Thai disco to Thai indie rock, plus lots of traditional music.” “Every song will be ripped from a vinyl record,” promises Nelson. Meanwhile, Webster, known for manning two turntables at Expatriate, scoured Bangkok’s record stores and carried back some 100 albums along with a scheme to create unique playlists for the restaurant. “The more you go to Thailand and dig deeper, the more you realize that Thai Chinese food is where it’s at,” says Nelson. He knows where to eat, what to get.” They ate day and night, pounding through entire menus to find hallelujah moments, returning to eat favored versions over and over again, just to make sure. As friendly as he is to everyone here, he knows 10 times more people in Bangkok. “We had the benefit of the secret handshake. “Earl opened a lot of doors,” says Nelson. Ninsom provided the early road map, but soon they were lurching at anything that looked amazing. “It’s the mixed-use of ingredients, what Chinese immigrants brought and what they found. Expect roughly 20 dishes, $9 to $17, inspired by the whirlwind of flavors found in Bangkok’s Chinatown: traditional Chinese to straight-up Thai, and everything in between. Yaowarat will open for dinner to start, Wednesday through Sunday, walk-ins only.
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